Experiencing Esxence Milano 2025: A Perfumer’s Perspective on Emerging Fragrance Trends
Experiencing Esxence for the first time as a perfumer for Bell was nothing short of exhilarating. Walking into the venue, I was immediately surrounded by an atmosphere buzzing with creativity and passion. The sheer energy of the fair was contagiouse perfumers, brand founders, and fragrance lovers all gathered in one place, exchanging ideas, exploring new olfactive directions, and celebrating the art of scent.
One thing that struck me was the sheer scale of Esxence. With around 400 brands presenting their latest creations, the variety was almost overwhelming. The conversations I had, the materials I discovered, and the compositions I smelled all gave me valuable insights that I will take back into our creative work.
What’s Defining Perfumery Right Now?
Spending time exploring the different brands, I started noticing clear patterns in the latest trends many of which confirm the directions we are already exploring.
The fruity trend continues to dominate, with an emphasis on bright, juicy notes. Pineapple, apple, and especially cherry were everywhere. Sometimes playful and sparkling, other times rich and boozy, almost like a fine liqueur. At Bell, we have also been experimenting with cherry in different forms whether as a syrupy gourmand note or as a crisp, vibrant fruit accent in fresh compositions, as well as in oriental and tobacco direction.
Another trend that stood out was the continued love for pistachio-inspired scents. I smelled several new releases that explored this note in both gourmand or unexpected directions. The way pistachio can be creamy, nutty, and slightly green at the same time makes it a fascinating ingredient to work with. We have seen a growing interest in nutty, comforting notes and are working on ways to bring out their unique textures in modern compositions.
The Rise of Fresh and Unexpected Compositions
What I also found very interesting, however, were the fresher, more unconventional launches. After years of sweet, intense fragrances dominating the market, I noticed a shift – green, earthy, and ozonic compositions are still having a place, exploring diverse fresher contrast. I came across several fragrances that evoked the scent of damp leaves, crushed stems, or watery atmosphere. These scents felt modern, effortless, and incredibly refreshing.
What we’ve been particularly focused on the interplay of freshness and depth. I was inspired to see how other brands reinterpreting nature-inspired notes are, confirming that there is a growing demand for fragrances that feel airy yet sophisticated. This aligns with some of our latest developments, where we are experimenting with dewy, mineral, and even slightly metallic facets to push the boundaries of freshness.
Another trend that caught my attention is the continued evolution of oud. Already well established in the market, oud notes are still expanding in popularity, blending with everything from tropical fruit facets to sweet, addictive accords. This growth extends beyond the Middle East, reaching global audiences.
At Bell, we remain committed to exploring oud in all its dimensions—ranging from classic, traditional fragrances to innovative new interpretations. From fruity to salty nuances, we push the boundaries of oud, uncovering fresh and unexpected addictive olfactive directions.
Inspiration and Reflection
Attending Esxence was more than just an opportunity to explore trends. It was a reminder of why I do what I do. Talking to fellow perfumers, discussing raw materials, smelling compositions that push creative boundaries. Leaving Milan, I felt a renewed sense of inspiration. Esxence reminded me that perfumery is a living, breathing art form – constantly evolving, yet deeply personal. And as a perfumer for Bell, I’m more excited than ever to bring these ideas into our creations.
